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hemyinspain
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Posts : 62
Location : Tiverton, Devon
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wheel bolts sheering off!!

Well having finally sorted the engine, she runs like a dream. We are so pleased. We made it to our sons wedding from devon to Peterborough, and she sounds absolutely lovely!
However....on the way back, in a very short space of time 2 wheen nuts sheered off and so we stopped and called the RAC. (saves deisel at least) who took us home. So is there any particular sort of nut we should use? is this a common problem? It has only just passed its MOT so would this problem not have been picked up?
it is just as well we didnt have wheel (hubs??) covers on them or we wouldnt have noticed! I guess we could have had an accident.
Anyway will get it to the mechanic somehow to see if we can sort that out but any advice as to particular known problems would be appreciated.
Cheers
Sarah

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Never look down on anyone ..... unless you are helping them up! :)

Mon 26 Jul 2010 @ 09:37 View hemyinspain   Email hemyinspain   Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
philbradshaw
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Location : Haslingden
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If the studs sheared off before the wheel started coming loose then it's more likely that they've been over-tightened & not necessarily very recently.

Replacement studs should be pressed into the hub flange rather than hammered in: the latter can enlarge the flange holes & leave the studs loose.

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What is real is not the external form but the essence of things. Constantin Brāncuşi

Mon 26 Jul 2010 @ 10:39 View philbradshaw   Email philbradshaw   Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
hemyinspain
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Posts : 62
Location : Tiverton, Devon
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So how do we get the old ones out? We cant drive her anywhere either as its too dangerous. I think we were very lucky not to have had an accident!

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Never look down on anyone ..... unless you are helping them up! :)

Mon 26 Jul 2010 @ 10:45 View hemyinspain   Email hemyinspain   Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
philbradshaw
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Location : Haslingden
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On 5-stud flanges the broken studs can be driven out once the brake drum is removed. Replacement studs can be fitted by using a new 7/16" UNF plain nut & some packing washers. (It would have been better if I'd said 'pressed or drawn into the hub flange'; either method ensures that the stud is fitted square.)

Once the flange is prevented from turning with a suitable bar between remaining studs the trick is to wind up the plain nut so that the stud head pulls as tight as possible against the flange. Use a new plain nut for each stud to avoid stripping nut threads that have stretched - nuts will fail first because the studs are harder material.

If the nuts on the remaining studs were very tight then it might be wise to replace all the studs. Tightening torque for wheel nuts is 68 N-m (50 lbf-ft); tightness should be checked within 5-10 mile then at about 100 mile after studs have been replaced. See www.bedford-cf.co.uk/mboard/thread.php?id=7582 for normal maintenance with respect to wheel nuts.

If you've got 6-stud flanges then it's a different job entirely...

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What is real is not the external form but the essence of things. Constantin Brāncuşi

Mon 26 Jul 2010 @ 11:53 View philbradshaw   Email philbradshaw   Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
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