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Stokesy
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Location : Heywood, Rochdale
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Engine swap. Slant four for ?

Can anybody recommend a good alternative engine for my 2.3 petrol slant four, which is kapput. I have heard that a carlton diesel engine will go in my 1978 CF, without too much trouble. Is this true? I have the mechanical skills of a fish and need help. Basically, I want the easiest engine swap possible, so as to keep costs down. Any advice will be fantastic. Cheers, Paul.

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Thu 22 Jul 2010 @ 01:46 View Stokesy   Email Stokesy   Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Ed-Don
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Location : Exeter, Devon
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First of all, tell us what is wrong with the existing engine. Repairing what you have may be easier than replacement.

If you have to swap, the easiest swap will be for another slant4. Maybe get a good one and LPG it at the same time?

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Owner of the longest CF on this forum

Thu 22 Jul 2010 @ 08:07 View Ed-Don   Email Ed-Don   Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
spence
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Location : Blackpool
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I have heard the vauxhall frontera are similar, best to get the engine and gearbox from the donor vehicle, then just remod the prop shaft length to fit, remod the engine mounting brackets. then you'll have to remake a wiring loom for all the sparky bits.
If you are swapping to a deisel you'll also need to put in anextra fuel return pipe to the fuel tank as well.

not an easy job but not impossible, if you know the right people who can help you.
Gethin has an engine change or two under his belt, so you could pick his brains, and Phil Bradshaw is the fountain of all knowledge and is probably reeling with my suggestion of even mentioning the frontera engine lol.

If you do a swap, make sure you blog it with lots of pics.

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If it's not one thing, it's your bedford. Spence and Jules.

Thu 22 Jul 2010 @ 08:34 View spence   Email spence   Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
philbradshaw
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I agree with Ed-Don on all counts: changing to anything other than a slant engine can mean a lot of work. Also, if the engine wasn't smoking out the exhaust or rattling too much before it started acting like a colander then it could be worth mending especially if it hasn't done as many miles as the van.

So, how come you've got leaky core plugs and head gasket? Did the engine boil dry?

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What is real is not the external form but the essence of things. Constantin Brāncuşi

Thu 22 Jul 2010 @ 10:06 View philbradshaw   Email philbradshaw   Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Stokesy
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Thanks for the advice, I am going to continue looking for a slant 4.
Engine did'nt boil dry by the way. Time and money disappeared when my children arrived on the scene, the van was stood for 4 years doin now't, I know, shameless behaviour and I am now gutted 'cos its now going to cost me.
Don't want to sell, went round Europe in 2002/3 with the van, lost 1st gear in Milles on new years eve, did 4 months like that getting by on Busking money ( i am a singer/guitarist). My wife and I had a brilliant time, want to do it all again.
Being as skilled mechanically as a fish, you want to see the effort I have made to get it going, which I did, had to make my own emergency core plug from 2 fifty mm washers and a drain rod plunger cut to size, bolt welded to one washer, nut facing out from the engine. Once tightened the two washers under pressure pushed the rubber out to seal the hole. Anyway it worked, held water, had the engine running for 10 mins, the it started hydrolocking. Now needs a cylinder head skim and gaskets and stuff, garage also recommended a pressure test on the engine. Quoted me £600, or £250 to put a replacement slant 4 engine innit. Can anyone do magic?
Thu 22 Jul 2010 @ 21:43 View Stokesy   Email Stokesy   Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
philbradshaw
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Stokesy wrote:
Can anyone do magic?

You might be able to: head gasket or the cylinder head cracking usually needs the engine to cook before they fail.

If there's no history of overheating before the van was laid up then problems within 10 minutes are more likely to be due to something less costly, e.g. choked radiator core, stuck thermostat, air lock in the cab heater plumbing.

Can you describe what you mean by 'hydrolocking'?

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What is real is not the external form but the essence of things. Constantin Brāncuşi

Thu 22 Jul 2010 @ 23:17 View philbradshaw   Email philbradshaw   Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
red chrome
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i have a rs turbo one on mine which is 90 amp but your need to do soom mods on your wiring
Fri 23 Jul 2010 @ 06:03 View red chrome   Email red chrome   Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Stokesy
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Hydrolocking ( i av probably spelt it wrong), water getting in the pistons. Does this make sense Phil?
RS turbo, sounds interesting.
Fri 23 Jul 2010 @ 20:19 View Stokesy   Email Stokesy   Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
philbradshaw
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Hydrolocking is the correct term for when enough water gets into engine cylinders to stop the pistons moving when they try to compress trapped water.

This condition usually occurs when trying to start the engine: residual cooling system pressure is enough to force water into the cylinders when the engine isn't running if the head or gasket is leaking. For the engine to swallow water only when it's running the leak must be on the intake side, i.e. at very much less than cylinder pressure.

Have you seen water ejected from the cylinders when the spark plugs are removed?

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What is real is not the external form but the essence of things. Constantin Brāncuşi

Fri 23 Jul 2010 @ 21:34 View philbradshaw   Email philbradshaw   Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Stokesy
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Hi Phil, thanks for your description of Hydrolocking, sounds like what is happening to my van.
Would a 2.3 cf diesel engine go in mine without much fuss? I have found a 1984 cf diesel with gearbox for 300 quid, what do you think? Its in a van thats running at the mo. Cheers, Paul.
Mon 26 Jul 2010 @ 08:59 View Stokesy   Email Stokesy   Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
philbradshaw
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To confirm hydrolocking, remove the spark plugs then crank the engine on the starter & watch for water being ejected from affected cylinder/s. If no water ejected then suspect faulty starter motor or wiring causing stalling of the starter.

To fit a 2.3D you'll need to swap the front axle beam for the correct engine mounting posts, or get involved in cutting & welding to swap just the mounting posts. Swapping the axle beam might be a better proposition on a CF1 because the engine swap then can be done without the body frame front cross member getting in the way too much.

There'll be other issues too because you'll need the increased capacity radiator to go with the diesel engine (CF1 & facelift radiator mounts are completely different), the diesel fuel tank (or fit a fuel return pipe to the petrol tank), exhaust front pipe at least, cold start relay and a re-wire of the under-bonnet engine harness.

Maybe a second opinion on what's wrong with the original engine would be a good idea before going much further; you have pmail.

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What is real is not the external form but the essence of things. Constantin Brāncuşi

Mon 26 Jul 2010 @ 09:31 View philbradshaw   Email philbradshaw   Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Philbut
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Slightly off topic as it's not an alternative to a slant, but I have a good 2.3 slant sat in my garage that I need to get rid of if you fancy making me an offer. i can't deliver but I don't want too much for it.

Phil
Thu 29 Jul 2010 @ 20:41 View Philbut   Email Philbut   Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
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