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kowkow19 Card Holder Posts : 11 Location : Isle of Wight Status : Offline 
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2.3 diesel injector pump not getting fuel - help please! Hello, Wondering if anyone could help. I have a 2.3 diesel cf which has been hibernating for a few months and now refuses to start. After going over the obvious (fresh fuel, glow plugs etc.) i've found that fuel isn't getting to the injectors but is getting as far as the injector pump inlet; and on priming the filter or cranking the engine there is no fuel showing at the injector pump bleed screw - would i be right in thinking it could be a faulty fuel cut solenoid (there is current and i've given it a little tap to try and free it)? Or is there an easy(ish) check to see whether the pump's at fault?Please anyone, any advice appreciated..... Thanks, Jamie |
 Sat 06 Mar 2010 @ 21:25
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remedave Member Posts : 21 Location : durham Status : Offline 
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sounds like a fuel cut of switch if theres power to the wire. however i have just been given a 2.3 diesel cf for the same problem and the pump was sent away for recon 
but if i were you i would do this ........ remove filer house bleed screw hand prime till no air bubbles keep pumping and replace screw. remove fuel pump bleed screw and copper washer turn engine over till neat fuel without air sqirts out the top then replace bleed screw and washer losen no.1 and no.4 injector pipe and turn engine over for around 30 secs you should start to see fuel come out (it can take a wjile) if no joy repeat a few more times before condeming the pump these engines are a pain to bleed through so be calm if this works sounds like your none return valve is knackard and with it standing the fuel system has back fed into the tank 
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Sun 07 Mar 2010 @ 10:24
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kowkow19 Card Holder Posts : 11 Location : Isle of Wight Status : Offline
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Thanks for your advice remedave, i've made sure there isn't air in the fuel, and that it's not draining back to the tank but unfortunately i'm still with the same problem and fuel is not entering the lift pump. Thankfully i have another pump which i've taken the fuel cut solenoid from, but the one on the camper will not budge - oh happy days! Anyway, not to worry; the next question is that it looks a little easier (i'm on a residential street nowhere near home) to undo the top half of the pump and replace, rather than replace the whole pump - would this be feasible or just plain silly and not worth contamining the internals for a little extra work? Jamie |
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Sun 07 Mar 2010 @ 16:08
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stesh Card Holder Posts : 73 Location : Durham Status : Offline 
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if you've got a lift pump that you know works, change the whole unit.. also check for any air leaks in the fuel lines from the tank etc as the current pump might be working but sucking air ! |
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Sun 07 Mar 2010 @ 16:45
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kowkow19 Card Holder Posts : 11 Location : Isle of Wight Status : Offline
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Thanks for the reply stesh, will follow advice and replace the pump i think; any advice to make replacing it more or less trouble free? Cannot find a great deal on basic removal and refitting do's and don't's apart from valuable timing info on this (marvellous:-)) site Jamie
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Sun 07 Mar 2010 @ 17:22
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philbradshaw Card Holder Posts : 2336 Location : Haslingden Status : Offline 
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Injection pump is the last thing to disturb. If there's little or no fuel getting through when cranking the engine on the starter then suspect blockage in the tank or fuel lines & check that the line can be blown through from the lift pump end. Should be able to blow bubbles in the tank that can be heard with the filler cap removed. If the fuel supply line is clear then suspect the lift pump. Check lift pump by cranking the engine with the inlet to the filter head slackened: fuel should spurt from the union. If that's ok then slacken the union on the injection pump side of the non-return valve on the filter head. If fuel spurts are much less now or you get only a dribble then the non-return valve is faulty. Also check the return line connected at a tee piece at the back of the engine; if this is blocked then it can affect injection pump operation but shouldn't affect lift pump operation when venting the system. ---------------------- |
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Sun 07 Mar 2010 @ 19:10
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kowkow19 Card Holder Posts : 11 Location : Isle of Wight Status : Offline
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Thank you phil, will go through yours and everyones pointers before attempting to change the injector pump as that really is a final resort; if everything checks out okay with fuel delivery up to the injector pump, then do you think that there's a possibility it could be the fuel cut solenoid, or do these rarely falter? |
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Sun 07 Mar 2010 @ 20:56
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philbradshaw Card Holder Posts : 2336 Location : Haslingden Status : Offline
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Fuel shut off solenoid is the likely culprit if there's fuel spurts from the injection pump side of the non-return valve when the engine is cranked on the starter but little or nothing from the bleed screw on the injection pump (should get 2-4 inch spurts with the bleed screw out). Solenoid should click when the ignition is switched on. If it doesn't then try 12V straight from fuse 3 (white leads side, ignition switched on), or the battery, onto the terminal; there's scope for wiring faults... ---------------------- |
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Sun 07 Mar 2010 @ 21:10
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kowkow19 Card Holder Posts : 11 Location : Isle of Wight Status : Offline
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Okay, went through everything today - blew through fuel lines and unblocked what i thought may be the problem within the lift pump filter, i'm now getting fuel from all unions when loosened in turn under cranking, including the bleed screw of the injector pump, but only in pulses rather than spurts and that's as far as it gets - there is nothing from injector unions on the injector pump at all....does this point to the lift pump, or the injector pump itself? I thought there would be something, anything, at the injector unions... Any pointers appreciated thank you, Jamie |
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Thu 11 Mar 2010 @ 19:50
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philbradshaw Card Holder Posts : 2336 Location : Haslingden Status : Offline
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Pulses will do. The injection pump will take a while to send fuel to the injectors; amount each time isn't that much at cranking speed. Make sure that the injection pump is completely vented by finishing off using the hand primer; once this is done, loosen 2 injector pipes at the injectors then crank the engine on the starter until fuel starts dribbling from the loosened unions. Tighten the injector unions then slacken the other 2 and crank engine on the starter again. By now the engine should start firing & once fuel gets to the second 2 injector unions, tighten them and the engine should fire up if the glow plugs are ok (they should have been heating up while the starter has been cranking the engine). ---------------------- |
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Thu 11 Mar 2010 @ 20:22
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kowkow19 Card Holder Posts : 11 Location : Isle of Wight Status : Offline
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Thanks phil, that's good to hear, i were expecting a torrent of fuel. The fuel itself flows freely from the bleed screw hole whilst hand priming so shall keep cranking. What's a little worrying is that I noticed a little smoke from starter after prolonged turning over, it smelt electrical... |
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Thu 11 Mar 2010 @ 20:47
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philbradshaw Card Holder Posts : 2336 Location : Haslingden Status : Offline
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If the starter gets hot then let it cool down; this takes a while though if it's started smelling so give it an hour or so. In normal use it will warm up with the amount of juice flowing through it but there's no sense in cooking it with prolonged use without a break. If the battery runs down then re-charge it: a low battery will make the starter struggle & cook even faster. Getting fuel to the injectors can take a while but once the engine starts dieseling (smoke from exhaust &/or trying to fire) you won't be that far off; once the engine runs the injection system will need to sort itself out before the engine will idle smoothly but it doesn't take that long on a fast idle for it to scavenge the last of the air out itself. ---------------------- |
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Thu 11 Mar 2010 @ 21:48
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kowkow19 Card Holder Posts : 11 Location : Isle of Wight Status : Offline
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Thanks phil, i'm not much used to diesels but learning with every piece of advice. When I took the the cover off the lift pump there was the plastic in/out plate with a 'filter' of six holes, and blocking five of the holes were five perfectly formed balls of black gunk which must have been the issue. Thanks again for all the advice; a great site. Jamie |
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Thu 11 Mar 2010 @ 22:10
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philbradshaw Card Holder Posts : 2336 Location : Haslingden Status : Offline
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Choked screen filter is enough to starve the engine of fuel. Fitting a line filter between the tank & pump will show up if there's more crud in the system & if the filter fouls up quickly then it would best to think about removing the tank & cleaning it out when the weather is a bit better. ---------------------- |
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Thu 11 Mar 2010 @ 22:34
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kowkow19 Card Holder Posts : 11 Location : Isle of Wight Status : Offline
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Thankfully the filter has stayed clear so far, my only problem now is getting fuel to the injectors - it's getting up to the front two without problem, but the two at the back of the motor are proving troublesome the little beggars |
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Fri 12 Mar 2010 @ 20:43
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philbradshaw Card Holder Posts : 2336 Location : Haslingden Status : Offline
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With 2 injectors getting fuel, you've won: tighten all unions and try going for a start with the battery freshly charged. Floor the accelerator pedal & keep the engine turning on the starter rather than stopping & restarting (easier on starter & battery); as the engine starts to fire on the front 2 injectors and its momentum picks up air in the 2 rear injector pipes will bleed through & the 2 rear injectors should kick in & the engine will run. When the engine does pick up & run, ease off the accelerator pedal to keep the engine running at a fast idle until it runs smoothly then it should idle normally. ---------------------- |
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Fri 12 Mar 2010 @ 21:01
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Ed-Don Card Holder Posts : 729 Location : Exeter, Devon Status : Offline 
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philbradshaw wrote: When the engine does pick up & run, ease off the accelerator pedal to keep the engine running at a fast idle until it runs smoothly then it should idle normally. I've got a piece of wood which I wedge between the accelerator pedal and the underside of the instrument panel which I use to maintain a fast idle when the van is cold! ---------------------- |
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Fri 12 Mar 2010 @ 21:53
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kowkow19 Card Holder Posts : 11 Location : Isle of Wight Status : Offline
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This is getting silly, 'tis still not wanting to go, i think i've lifted the battery in and out about 15 times in the last month - it's breaking my back! Do you think it's worth removing the injectors and testing/cleaning them, or should i try getting oil down the bores? Jamie |
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Tue 16 Mar 2010 @ 12:40
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bluebedouin Card Holder Posts : 766 Location : Northampton,England. Status : Offline 
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Have you got an automatic box?If not,can't you get someone to give you a tow till it fires? ---------------------- |
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Tue 16 Mar 2010 @ 18:47
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philbradshaw Card Holder Posts : 2336 Location : Haslingden Status : Offline
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Check the supply to the glow plugs: should be battery volts when ignition switched on & before warning lamp lights & also when the starter is cranking the engine. If the supply is ok then it might be a good idea to remove the glow plugs to check that they've not burnt out: obvious when the ends pop, not so obvious if they look ok. A glow plug that's ok should heat up rapidly when 12V applied; dip in fuel before trying & immediately remove supply if it smokes or it'll burn out. If supply & glow plugs are ok then squirt some engine oil into the combustion chambers & spin the engine to disperse the oil before refitting the glow plugs (messy - oil will spray out of the holes so drape some rags over the engine to catch it). Or try a tow start as bluebedouin suggests. If the engine runs then won't restart next time it's cold then check glow plugs & supply. ---------------------- |
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Tue 16 Mar 2010 @ 21:05
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